Whoa! Hold on there Partner

Time to fire up the Sawsall -I have decided to go another route.

Before I made all my mods, the oil temperature was decent. Now, I have a hot #2 cylinder on climb out and high oil temps.

So, why the difference?

• New wing? No.
• New Dynon EFIS? No.
• New paint? No.
• Fuel injection? Probably not
• New oil tank? Maybe, but probably not.
• Longer intake snouts? Maybe, but probably not.
• Inlet snorkels? Most likely candidate.

Why? Well, they can obstruct the amount of air reaching the cylinders, especially on climb out. On the other hand, I did a differential pressure check across the upper and lower deck of the engine compartment, and it seemed to be in line with recommendations.

If I install the coil cooler I will have to divert cowling air for it which would probably make the hot cylinders even worse.

So, I am going to backtrack and remove the snorkels and install a standard type of induction inlet in the lower cowl. Yes, that will mess up the paint job, but so be it.

After I have done this work, I may have to install the cooler, but at least I should have more air available.

Just call me Mr. Glutton F. Punishment

Trying to Cram In An Oil Cooler

Winter is over, the crocuses are blooming, and it's time for me to get my oil temperature under control. In the past race it was somewhat north of 245 deg, which is way too hot.

I found a nifty auto performance part called an "oil cooler sandwich adapter". This is pretty nifty because it includes the 180 degree bypass valve. Here are a couple of photos.

It mounts right on the El Reno style spin-on filter adapter, easy as pie.

That was the easy part, now I have to find a spot for the cooler itself. I got a cooler which is sized for the O-300D engine, which may be overkill, but since it was only 1/2" taller than the O-200 version I figured I may as well go for the extra cooling.
I guess I'll just order some hoses and fittings and plumb it in. The next hard part will be making some kind of ducting to feed it.